Nose Correction Theory

OBJECTIVE:   You will be able to apply correct the nose shape using shadow and highlight with cream and powder products
 

Nose shading and highlighting – correct an issue and/or gives definition

Do all noses need correction? 

·         A good nose may not need it

·         For intense lighting situations, you may need to use highlight to shadow to get the nose to stand out from the rest of the face

When do you use highlight and shadow?

• When the nose is crooked
• When you view the nose in a mirror and the nose looks flat
• When you are trying to create a very dramatic look

Product Choices

·         Cream – in highlight and shadow palette, used for powdering

·         Powder – bronzer or taupe eye shadow used after powdering

Do not mindlessly apply a stripe of highlight down the center of the nose

 Keep shadows to the sides of the nose

 Highlight should only be applied to an area that needs to be lifted.  Try not to apply shadow to the part of the nose that faces SCULPTURAL LIGHT

Highlights – PULL area FORWARD

Shadow – PUSHES area BACK

Highlight and ShadowTheory and Applications

                                            HIGHLIGHT AND SHADOW THEORY

You will be able to highlight and shadow 2-dimensional objects to look like 3-dimensional objects

 

Highlight and shadow is everything to an artist

First we must begin to see as an artist

Slip into a “right” brain type of thought =

             Left brain – analytical

            Right brain – creativity, artistic and abilities

2 Dimensional = height and width

3 Dimensional = height, width and depth

Creativity = the sum of your experiences

Sculptural Light – the artist that paints a portrait or a likeness has the ability to select the light source and position it anywhere

 As a make up artist, we are faced with a similar situation

 However, we DO NOT have the ability to place the light anywhere we want

 We must place the light ABOVE and in FRONT of our model

 You or your model  is moving and acting in a 3-D world

So, if we move the light source, we’d have funny shadows all over the face = weird

 

Mirror is 2-D, the camera is 2-D, so your mirror is your camera.  What you see in the mirror is how it will look on camera

SHADOW AND HIGHLIGHT APPLICATION

You will be able to identify natural shadows on the face and properly apply highlight to correct those shadows

          Frontal Bone

• Temples
• Brow Bone
• Orbital Sockets
• Nose
• Cheek Bones
• Nasal Labial Fold
• Corner of the Mouth
• Chin
• Jaw Line
• Jowls
• Neck
• Fine Facial Lines (around the eyes and between the eyebrows)

* If an area is over highlighted it will not correct the area properly LESS is MORE!!

Concealer and Correction Theory

You will be able to apply concealer to correct negative colors and blemishes in as thin an application as possible

 Concealer is also called Paramedical Make Up or Camouflage Make Up

 Correcting Color

• First identify the problem color the OPPOSITE color on the color wheel (get one from an art supply store - it is priceless) will neutralize the problem color

Red is neutralized by Green, however, Yellow is a better choice, otherwise you will have a green spot

Blue is neutralized by Orange

Counter Balance

• If someone’s skin is too yellow, add a bit of red to balance
• If someone’s skin is too red, add some yellow to balance
• Use very sparingly

First thing to do:

1.      Analyze the face

2.      Base first – if base can’t cover, then

3.      Conceal first, light layer of powder, then base

4.      Conceal, powder lightly, base, conceal again

Cream on Cream and Powder on Powder

Do not put powder on cream only – blush and eye shadow won’t move and won’t look right if you use base only, must powder first, then blush and eye shadow

The Perfect Base Application

BASE APPLICATION

You will be able to properly apply base  in an even application without missing any area

 

Skin Condition

          Smooth youthful skin

• Textured skin – aged or problem
• Dry or oily

 Moisturizer

          Excellent for a smooth application

• Necessary for dry skin
• Good for removal of excess skin

Primer

         Used the same way as moisturizer

• Mixes well with base to sheer it, making it thinner

Matching Base

• Identify a base color that loosely resembles the skin tone
• Apply a small amount on the neck
• For heavier coverage you can add primer
• For problem areas like under eyes “stipple” with base in that area
• Sponges can be cut however you want
• Powder puff – keep them in their bag

Powder – How to apply correctly

• Tapping and rolling
• Top of the face, working your way down
• Eyelids are last

Powder makes the make up “bullet proof”. 

If you powder too heavy, spritz face, about 6-8 inches away and it will lighten the affect

Put the base on your palette with applicator to “warm it up” before applying to skin

To see if a base matches, put a dot on the neck.  Do not rub it.  It will match if you do.  Leave it, without rubbing and decide if it is the right color.

Identify Skin Undertones and Shades for the Perfect MakeUp Application

Identify skin undertones and shades.  After reading this information you should be able to identify the correct make-up that matches your models (or your) skin tone

Mistakes:

Most common  – making the face too light

Shade – lightness or darkness of the shade of a color
Undertone – intrinsic color of skin (skin condition does not determine undertone) i.e., roscea

There Are:

Two possibilities:  Olive – which is the majority of people.  Olive is yellowish/green

                               Ruddy – reddish color

Color Theory

     Primary Colors – You cannot mix a color to get these colors

           Violet

           Orange

           Green

   Secondary Colors  –    Mix Red and Yellow = Orange
                                         Mix Red and Blue= Violet

To make base – mix: Red, Yellow and Blue = Brown
Add white = Beige
Add Black – Darker Brown
Red     Yellow     Blue – add more Yellow = Olive
Red     Yellow     Blue – add more Red  = Ruddy

What makes up base besides color?

            Vehicle – what the color is suspended in                               +

            Pigment – provides coverage                                                 =

            Water based – liquid make up

            Oil and wax – cream make up (better coverage)
            Silicone – liquid or cream (air brush)
            Binder (dual finish (powder and foundation)
            Pancake make up

Creams can be made lighter for more sheerness vs. heavy coverage

MakeUp Lesson: Analyzing the Face

OBJECTIVE:  To identify bone structure, skin tone, skin condition, coloration, imperfections and the positive and negative aspects of the face

Positive Highlights:

• Malor Bone – top of the cheek bones
• Frontal Bone – center of the forehead
• Nasal Bone – center of nose/bridge
• Nasal Labial Roll

Negative Highlights:

Hot Spots – any place with reflective shin, where you don’t want it, i.e., sides of the nose, T-Zone
Any spots on the face that appear to sweat

Positive Shadows:

Bottom of cheekbone (gives slimming look)
Under chin – jaw line (creates definition)

Negative Shadows:

• Orbital Socket (under eyes)
• In between the eyes (crease)
• Frown Lines
• Nasal Labial Fold
• Temples
• Chin
• Corners of the mouth

Skin Condition (negative colors (unwanted) *first color your see, is what you deal with)

• Red blemishes, broken capillaries
• Blue under eyes, veins
• Dark brown under eyes, mouth area
• Purple under eyes

Yellow Pigmentation

• Red pigmentation
• Oily areas
• Dry patches
• Fine lines
• Blemishes, scars, etc.

What is underneath your skin creates what your skin looks like

Can’t fix the why

Can fix the what

MakeUp on Your Wedding Day

Why Use A Make-Up Artist On Your Wedding Day

Longevity- This make-up needs to last all day. And night!
You don’t want to be touching up your eye shadow and re-concealing half way through the day. Good make-up artists have tricks a plenty up their sleeves when it comes to achieving that long stay finish. I always pay close attention to the skin and address any underlying issues before I even touch it with base! Then there’s setting the make-up without looking dry and powdery, stopping the eyes from creasing, liner from smudging.

Photography- Flash photography can have a huge effect on the make-up you wear.
It can change what looks like a natural make-up into a ‘nothing at all’ look! That smudge of kohl pencil and quick coat of mascara won’t stand up to the job. Without enough definition around the eyes, they’ll disappear (not literally, just photographically!). The art is having enough on so your features are defined but not so much that you feel over done.

When it comes to foundation, having a base on that doesn’t reflect well can lead to a washed out complexion. A make-up artist will have a variety of shades in his/her kit, that way, if you’ve had a spray tan or used a self tan at home, your face will match your body exactly. There’s nothing worse than your face looking like it’s stuck onto someone else’s body!

The look- We, as women, are super critical when we look in the mirror! It’s hard for us to be objective when it comes to our own faces. That’s why we so often get stuck in make-up ruts. A make-up artist looks at you differently.

A make-up artist gives a fresh take on styles and colors that you may have never thought of. A good make-up artist will bear what you do every day in mind and create you a look that combines your own style with new ideas. The idea is not to make you look like someone else, just a more polished, perfect version of you! Don’t be afraid to show clippings from magazines of make-up that you’ve seen. Sometimes it’s easier to show than to describe. That’s what trials are for!

Time- Don’t under estimate how manic the morning of your wedding can get! I like to take the bride off into another room to do her make-up. This gives her a break from the mayhem and lets her focus on the most important thing, herself!