Identify Skin Undertones and Shades for the Perfect MakeUp Application

Identify skin undertones and shades.  After reading this information you should be able to identify the correct make-up that matches your models (or your) skin tone

Mistakes:

Most common  – making the face too light

Shade – lightness or darkness of the shade of a color
Undertone – intrinsic color of skin (skin condition does not determine undertone) i.e., roscea

There Are:

Two possibilities:  Olive – which is the majority of people.  Olive is yellowish/green

                               Ruddy – reddish color

Color Theory

     Primary Colors – You cannot mix a color to get these colors

           Violet

           Orange

           Green

   Secondary Colors  –    Mix Red and Yellow = Orange
                                         Mix Red and Blue= Violet

To make base – mix: Red, Yellow and Blue = Brown
Add white = Beige
Add Black – Darker Brown
Red     Yellow     Blue – add more Yellow = Olive
Red     Yellow     Blue – add more Red  = Ruddy

What makes up base besides color?

            Vehicle – what the color is suspended in                               +

            Pigment – provides coverage                                                 =

            Water based – liquid make up

            Oil and wax – cream make up (better coverage)
            Silicone – liquid or cream (air brush)
            Binder (dual finish (powder and foundation)
            Pancake make up

Creams can be made lighter for more sheerness vs. heavy coverage

MakeUp Lesson: Analyzing the Face

OBJECTIVE:  To identify bone structure, skin tone, skin condition, coloration, imperfections and the positive and negative aspects of the face

Positive Highlights:

• Malor Bone – top of the cheek bones
• Frontal Bone – center of the forehead
• Nasal Bone – center of nose/bridge
• Nasal Labial Roll

Negative Highlights:

Hot Spots – any place with reflective shin, where you don’t want it, i.e., sides of the nose, T-Zone
Any spots on the face that appear to sweat

Positive Shadows:

Bottom of cheekbone (gives slimming look)
Under chin – jaw line (creates definition)

Negative Shadows:

• Orbital Socket (under eyes)
• In between the eyes (crease)
• Frown Lines
• Nasal Labial Fold
• Temples
• Chin
• Corners of the mouth

Skin Condition (negative colors (unwanted) *first color your see, is what you deal with)

• Red blemishes, broken capillaries
• Blue under eyes, veins
• Dark brown under eyes, mouth area
• Purple under eyes

Yellow Pigmentation

• Red pigmentation
• Oily areas
• Dry patches
• Fine lines
• Blemishes, scars, etc.

What is underneath your skin creates what your skin looks like

Can’t fix the why

Can fix the what

MakeUp on Your Wedding Day

Why Use A Make-Up Artist On Your Wedding Day

Longevity- This make-up needs to last all day. And night!
You don’t want to be touching up your eye shadow and re-concealing half way through the day. Good make-up artists have tricks a plenty up their sleeves when it comes to achieving that long stay finish. I always pay close attention to the skin and address any underlying issues before I even touch it with base! Then there’s setting the make-up without looking dry and powdery, stopping the eyes from creasing, liner from smudging.

Photography- Flash photography can have a huge effect on the make-up you wear.
It can change what looks like a natural make-up into a ‘nothing at all’ look! That smudge of kohl pencil and quick coat of mascara won’t stand up to the job. Without enough definition around the eyes, they’ll disappear (not literally, just photographically!). The art is having enough on so your features are defined but not so much that you feel over done.

When it comes to foundation, having a base on that doesn’t reflect well can lead to a washed out complexion. A make-up artist will have a variety of shades in his/her kit, that way, if you’ve had a spray tan or used a self tan at home, your face will match your body exactly. There’s nothing worse than your face looking like it’s stuck onto someone else’s body!

The look- We, as women, are super critical when we look in the mirror! It’s hard for us to be objective when it comes to our own faces. That’s why we so often get stuck in make-up ruts. A make-up artist looks at you differently.

A make-up artist gives a fresh take on styles and colors that you may have never thought of. A good make-up artist will bear what you do every day in mind and create you a look that combines your own style with new ideas. The idea is not to make you look like someone else, just a more polished, perfect version of you! Don’t be afraid to show clippings from magazines of make-up that you’ve seen. Sometimes it’s easier to show than to describe. That’s what trials are for!

Time- Don’t under estimate how manic the morning of your wedding can get! I like to take the bride off into another room to do her make-up. This gives her a break from the mayhem and lets her focus on the most important thing, herself!